Pintas Douro 2017

The 2017 Pintas is a field blend from old vines (not quite 90 years) aged for 20 months in 30% new French oak. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. This seemed surprisingly accessible and elegant for this vintage when I first saw it as a tank sample in Porto last June. It was, however, a bit reticent. I expected more. It is now showing exactly that. I'm still not convinced it is quite as great as the winery thinks, but it is awfully fine. It has an extra layer of depth over the 2016, a little more power and even more concentration of fruit—in that subtle and elegant style the winery has; it's never jammy. It is still remarkably unevolved and in need of some time to show the finesse and harmony it will one day have, but it is surprisingly approachable. When this rounds into something more like peak form in the late 2020s, I suspect many unfamiliar to Portugal will pick up a glass and think it is something far more famous. Some six hours later (re-corked, not decanted), it was arguably better. At the moment, this still is not quite all the way there. If it is all about potential, it has a lot of it.

A generous, harmonious red, boasting steeped cherry, blackberry coulis and cedar flavors that meld into violet, black tea and graphite accents. Details of olive, wild herb and ripe currant play into the finish. Powerful and refined.