Ad Libitum Maturana Blanca 2019

Thankfully, the 2019 Ad Libitum Maturana Blanca goes back to the style and profile of the 2016 vintage, as the 2018 was killed with new oak. In a warm vintage, the grape managed to keep the wine at 13.54% alcohol and with a pH of 3.19. The vines were planted 23 years ago, the oldest in Rioja, as Sancha was involved in the recovery of the variety on terraces at 565 meters in altitude in the Najerilla Valley. The must fermented in 500-liter new French oak barrels (!?), where it matured for five months with lees. But the wine is not oaky and has a fruit-driven profile, with contained ripeness, some austerity, not terribly aromatic and with a round palate and very good freshness, and there's even a salty twist in the finish. When tasting wines like this, I think of Maturana Blanca as the Godello from Rioja... 4,000 bottles were filled in April 2020.

Maturana Blanca is thought to be the first recorded (1622) grape variety in Rioja, though after phylloxera it was not authorised until 2008. Disappointingly it has only been taken up in small quantities by growers. Winemaker and academic, Juan Carlos Sancha, drove the research into this and other forgotten varieties. This wine comes from vines planted in 1997 on old terraces in the Najerilla valley. It starts with notes of quince and golden fruits and is layered with a delicate texture of oak, giving a savoury, fresh finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2024.

Maturana Tinta, or Castets, wouldn't be planted in Rioja without Juan Carlos Sancha. This comes from an old terrace in the Najerilla Valley at 565 metres and is a comparatively plush, supple expression of the grape, with mocha oak, bright acidity and black cherry and cut grass flavours. 2022-27