Astérides Rosé 2018

A blend of Grenache Gris (for freshness), Syrah (for flavor) and Cabernet Sauvignon (for texture), the 2018 La Negly IGP Pays d'Oc Asterides Rose is a pale flamingo hued wine. There's a faint herbal note accenting cherry and lime flavors in this fresh, medium-bodied rosé.

This year's visit to Chateau de la Negly included a surprise look at some previous vintages, which cemented in my mind that these are some of the most compelling wines to come out of Languedoc. No, they're not wines for those who think size and richness are incompatible with elegance, as these inky behemoths actually—to this taster anyway—show a surprising level of nuance and finesse. They're big—mostly 15% alcohol or higher—but avoid tasting stewed or raisined. The ripe tannins allow them to drink well young, while the concentration enables them to drink well for up to two decades. Yes, the top cuvées are expensive, but put them in the context of other world-class wines, produced in quantities of only about 300 cases annually, and all of a sudden they don't seem so pricey.