Contino Graciano 2017

I caught the varietal 2017 Graciano just before being bottled. The grapes were picked on the 8th of September, which is quite early, and the finished wine has 13.73% alcohol and a pH of 3.33 with 6.37 grams of acidity (tartaric). The grapes come from a 3.7-hectare plot planted in 1979 and 1989. As they want to preserve the varietal character, they did a soft vinification in small oak vats, but it was aged in new oak barrels, mostly French oak and some 28% American oak. The wine matured for 14 months and then was transferred to concrete tanks, where it matured for a further four to five months to avoid too much oak. It feels very tender, a little creamy and very young, in need of a bit of time in bottle; it should be kept in bottle for a while before it's released. The nose might be difficult to read, but the palate is explosive and very varietal, vibrant, lively and integrated, like biting into a ripe bunch of Graciano grapes. It should make old bones. I look forward to tasting this in bottle next time. - Luis Gutiérrez. 

Lots of blueberries and slate with crushed stone and concrete. Full body. Linear and refined with super fine tannins. Bright acidity and graphite undertones. Driven and agile. Dances on the palate. Best now.

2017 was Jorge Navascués' first vintage at Contino and he's made some very impressive wines. This is always one of Rioja's best Gracianos, produced in a microclimate that brings out the best of the variety. Deeply coloured, dense and concentrated with intense wild herb aromas, damson and mulberry fruit and structured tannins. 2022-32