Dalva Porto Colheita Golden White 1971 50cl.

The 1971 Golden White Port (Dalva) is a field blend, mostly Malvasia Fina, Viosinho and Rabigato, coming in at 135 grams per liter of residual sugar. I've seen this before, but this is the new bottling (2017) about to arrive in the USA. Just lovely, its subtle concentration allows it to grip the palate and fill every taste bud with flavor. It leans a bit to a tawny in that regard, throwing off waves of caramel and complex flavors, but it is far fresher and brighter. It is just plain delicious, but it is the lift and freshness that carry the fruit home and allow it to linger on palate. It never seems thick. It never seems ponderous. It just seems rather brilliant. It is always easy to drink, but still has enough tension on the finish to enliven the wine. A couple of days later, it is notably better, fuller in the mouth. It is at this age where the Golden White trilogy this issue acquires the extra complexity to make it seem very special. If you haven't had great White Ports, this is good place to learn some lessons. In the final analysis, it lacks some of the grip on the finish that the gorgeous 1963 has (also reviewed), but it is still awfully fine. For the first couple of days open, I could've picked either one. The 1963 was far more durable, though. This is Port, so be careful. It may not seem to have a big kick, since it is so perfectly balanced, but that alcohol is in there even if you can't always sense it.