Dominio de Atauta 2016 Magnum

Soria in the east of Ribera del Duero is characterised by old vines (many pre-phylloxera) at high altitude. Miguel Sanchez owns 25ha here, farmed biodynamically, but also buys from small growers. This wine is sourced from 600 separate parcels of 60- to 120-year-old vines grown on clay, loam and sandy soils over calcareous bedrock, imparting a mineral freshness to this accomplished red. Warm and mellow black fruits on the nose, with an earthy edge plus brighter cherry and herbal notes. A ripe and brambly attack gives way to a more linear mid-palate, with fresh acidity and some chewiness on the finish along with notes of liquorice, cedar and herbs. Offers real vibrancy and sense of place: bravo!

The eponymous red 2016 Dominio de Atauta, the first vintage of winemaker Jaime Suárez, was truly impressive, bringing to mind the first vintages of the winery that broke the stereotype of concentrated and oaked Ribera del Duero in search of more freshness and showcasing the amazing but then unknown vineyards of the village of Atauta in the cooler part of the appellation in the province of Soria. It's a step up from the Parada de Atauta, with more depth and power, perhaps a little more ripeness too, and a tender and balanced mouthfeel with very integrated acidity. A tad more freshness would have been ideal... 59,637 bottles and 1,440 magnums produced. It was bottled in July 2018.