Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno Barolo Cannubi DOCG 2016

When compared to the other wines in this flight from Fratelli Serio & Battista Borgogno, the 2016 Barolo Cannubi is by far the most defined, erect and vertical. It offers more energy and tension within, thanks to sharp tones of dark cherry, tilled earth and rusty nail. I also found aromas specific to this wine that remind me of clove or toasted cardamom seed. It all works out nicely. This wine will appeal to those who enjoy a slightly darker and more robust side of the Cannubi cru, a vineyard awash in soft, golden sunlight. Some 12,000 bottles were filled in January. This is one of the best values you can get from Cannubi.

Yet another Borgogno estate, this being of 19th-century origin and now in the hands of the descendants of Francesco Borgogno, long-term mayor of Barolo. The focus here is on Cannubi, where the estate owns 3ha. The winemaking here is traditional, and the nose is ripe but reticent, with lean, elegant red-fruit aromas. Although succulent and sleek, it lacks some depth now, but it's spicy, lively and has ample acidity. Its tangy finish should promise a good future.