Goliardo A Telleira 2022

The 2022 Goliardo A Telleira shows lots of finesse. They changed the élevage here to 1,500-litre foudre, which they think works better for Albariño than barrels, no matter how big they are, and this wine clearly shows it. It has the finesse of the sandy soils and a polished texture (a little more sleek, a bit à la Chenin) but still lively and with pungent flavors. 2,500 bottles were filled in August 2023.

A Telleira uses grapes grown on white clay soils – no granite here, folks – that are very close to the ocean. Fermented in older 700-litre barrels, it's broader than some of the more austere 2021s, combining aromas of vanilla pod, the sea shore and wild herbs with a palate of wax, aniseed and lemon zest. 2024-30.