Gran Vino Pazo Barrantes 2020

Focused, ripe, mineral and intense, with lemon rind, stones and sea salt. Very tense and integrated, with tangy, bright acidity chiseled to the round, textured palate. An exceptional, transparent yet serious albarino here. Irresistible now. Drink on release or hold.

The lovely Pazo Barrantes estate has been the home of the Creixell family since the 15th century. (They also own the Castillo Ygay estate in Rioja, with its Marqués de Murrieta wines.) Its 12ha of vineyards were replanted in 1982, and the winery opened in 1991. This wine spends two months on lees; 85% is then aged in stainless steel for seven months and 15% in 225L acacia wood barrels. It spends 16 months in bottle before release. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Opulent and perfumed with golden fruit. The palate is bold and intense with ripe fruit subdued by the oak, giving richness. A complex and individual wine. Pierre Mansour: Delightful blossom fruit and floral notes on the nose. Very elegant, with incredible length and real finesse. Beth Willard: Delicate honey and floral aromas. The palate is perfectly rounded by the oak, which lends a gentle sweetness and spice. Peach and apricot on the finish with a touch of mango.

The 2020 Gran Vino Albariño, the second vintage after the transformation, is a representation of their property, the eight pagos, or vineyards, they have in their 12 hectares of vineyards plus one hectare they rent. The grapes were destemmed and the must let to settle to ferment in stainless steel for 60 days, followed by two months with lees and seven months after being racked off the lees, then a small percentage was put in acacia wood barrels for a short time to search for more complexity, structure and depth. They found that acacia is a wood in harmony with Albariño, even when newer. The bottles were kept for a further 20 months before being released. It has 13.5% alcohol, a low pH (3.26) and notable acidity (7.2 grams of tartaric acid per liter of wine), and it has finesse and elegance. It's sharp, with great aromatic intensity, less explosive and balsamic than the previous year, a remarkable mid-palate and a long, clean and precise finish. 78,533 bottles and 1,596 magnums were produced. It was bottled in June 2021.

Elena Cores used a little wood on this wine for the second time in 2020, fermenting 15% in acacia barrels and the remainder in stainless steel. Musky, perfumed and layered, with some of the richness of the vintage, it has peach, pear and subtle cinnamon spice flavours and a classic Salnés Valley undertow of granitic freshness and bite. 2023-28