Günther Steinmetz Wintricher Geierslay 2016

From a 1.2-hectare plot with 60-year-old vines on a blueish/purple colored slate and quartz soil, the 2016 Wintricher Geierslay Riesling "GW" offers a very fine and coolish smoky nose of bright and juicy citrus fruits and crushed stones—lovely! Fermented and aged in stainless steel and bottled in June, this is a full-bodied, round, lush and creamy textured yet well-structured Wintricher Riesling with a persistently juicy, complex and elegant finish. Made for the first time as "Grosser Wintricher," this is a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vines. The finish even shows some fine tannins that give this great wine structure and aging potential. Bottled with 11.5% alcohol and 12 grams of unfermented sugar.

Just a shade off dry in style, this feather-light dynamo offers bold, concentrated stone fruit and blossom tones, enveloped in rich, penetrating swathes of smoke and earth. It's a gorgeously complex wine, with spine tingling acidity and a delicate, lilting mouthfeel that extends endlessly on the finish. Drinks beautifully already but concentrated and structured enough to improve well through 2030.

This is a pretty radical wine. It's still too young, but there's serious depth and enormous freshness. Tastes almost bone dry and has the kind of salty-lemony intensity you might expect from high-end Chablis.