La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 2011

Lovely dried red fruit, such as plums with just a hint of prunes. Cedar, walnut and leather undertones. Full-bodied with lots of fruit, considering its age, as well as hints of smoke, tobacco, bark and black tea. Some balsamic at the finish. Traditionally styled with lovely results. Drink or hold.

Considerably more evolved than the 2015 release, which is also available now, this is a classic marriage (for 904) of Tempranillo and 11% Graciano that will appeal to the wine's many dedicated fans. Sweet balsamic and coconut aromas segue into a palate that's gentle, savoury and caressing with vital underlying acidity and structure. 2021-26

I usually prefer the 904 to the 890, but there will be no Gran Reserva 890 until the 2010 vintage (from the last vintage I tasted, 2005). So, the only one of the extended-aging Haro-style reds I tasted this time was the 2011 Gran Reserva 904, which had a hard act to follow after the 2010 vintage. It's a blend of 89% Tempranillo and 11% Graciano matured in American oak barrels for four years, and it was racked eight times from barrel to barrel during its élevage, which sounds a bit harsh for a vintage like 2011 when the wines were not as complete and robust as in 2010. It has the classic profile, aromas and flavors (decayed leaves, tobacco, sweet spices, a meaty touch and some black fruit), but the oak seems to take a more leading role and the palate feels less juicy. It finishes dry. The final blend was bottled in November 2016, filling 150,000 bottles.

Oak and red fruit nose. The palate has mouth-watering acidity, fine-grained/well-knit tannins and notes of citrus peel, spice and baked brambles. Long finish.