Laherte Freres Ultradition Extra Brut

Based on the 2015 vintage and 40% of reserve wines, the NV Extra Brut Ultradition is an assemblage of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from eight villages and terroirs in the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay and the Marne Valley. Vinified in cuves, pièces and foudres and aged on the lees for six months (with malolactic partly done), this is a deep, pure and complex cuvée. Full-bodied, firm and very mineral yet fine, fresh and pure on the salty palate, the finish reveals charming richness and intense fruit but keeps the firm and chalky expression of this impressive Extra Brut. I'd keep this cuvée for another two or three years, but I suppose it can also age for a decade. Tasted in August 2018 from Lot L.14 that was disgorged in November 2017. -Stephan Reinhardt.