M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 2017

The inky colored 2017 Ermitage Le Pavillon comes from the biggest, baddest part of Hermitage and was brought up all in 20-25% new French oak barrels. Huge crème de cassis, crushed flowers, graphite, and liquid rock notes all dominate the bouquet, and this massively rich, powerful, yet pure and classic Hermitage builds incrementally on the palate, has a wealth of tannins, flawless balance, and a great finish. Showing the sexy, expressive style of the vintage, it has some upfront charm, yet I suspect it will close down (as has the 2015) with a few years of bottle age and require a decade or more of cellaring. There are just 894 cases of this magical elixir.

Cassis and crushed stone join on the nose of the 2017 Ermitage le Pavillon. More austere than les Geffieux or le Méal, le Pavillon is rooted more firmly in granite, with crisply defined edges and firm tannins. It's impressive for sure, full-bodied, loaded with extract and almost creamy across the mid-palate, but ultimately it needs time. Give it 10 years to soften and develop a bit more charm—it has the concentrated dark fruit to carry it the distance.

A damson juice nose is joined by a hint of dark chocolate and plum sauce, and also a warm stone aroma reminiscent of a young Pessac-Léognan. On the palate it's lovely and smooth, with a velvety mouthfeel, piercing acidity and super-fine tannins. It's a very long, direct, silky style that's more powerful and muscular than an average year, but retains its salinity, purity and elegance. 18 months in barriques and demi-muids, 25% new. Drinking Window 2025 - 2039.

This is impressive with such fragrant, complex spices and violet flowers, cast across ripe blackberries and blueberries. Very youthful and fresh for now. The palate has a super rich and concentrated core of ripe dark plums and blackberries. Glossy, rich tannins are set in ripe and plush mode. Impressive composure in 2017. Drink or hold.