M. Chapoutier Ermitage L'Ermite Rouge 2017

The 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite is equally astounding but a completely different expression of Hermitage. Somehow this combines the reservedness of le Pavillon with the generosity of le Méal, resulting in a wine that I can only describe as perfect. The pristine cassis fruit is remarkably pure, joined by complex notes of crushed stone, salted licorice and the slightest hints of fine-grained oak. It's full-bodied, concentrated and velvety in texture, with oodles of chewy but ripe tannins and a finish that goes on for minutes.

A showy expression with very fresh and exotic aromas of red and white cherries, peaches, oranges and plums, as well as dark chocolate and a swathe of spices. The palate is so appealing, offering really fleshy, succulent and sweet, ripe dark plums and chocolate and very glossy, gossamer tannins. So polished. Very long. Best from 2025.

This wine includes some fruit from pre-phylloxera vines planted in 1860. Michel explains that the soils on this lieu-dit are granilite - granite with a touch of calcium; a rare kind of alkaline granite. The wine spends nine months in demi-muid, one-third new. It has distinct notes of almond, linden and iris, with a certain mineral register to the aromatic profile. It's fairly full-bodied and very intense, with an electric palate expression - this is noticeably more acidic than his other white Hermitages this year. It's so vibrant, with less oiliness on the palate compared to the other 2017s - it almost fizzes with minerality.

The 490-case 2017 Ermitage L’Ermite comes from a mix of granite and limestone soils and was brought up all in demi-muids. It offers a fresh, focused, chiseled style that has awesome minerality as well as crème de cassis, graphite, crushed violets, burning embers, and bacon fat that develops beautifully with air. With a huge, layered mid-palate, brilliant concentrated, ultra-fine tannins, and a finish that won't quit, it’s unquestionably one of the most impressive wines in the vintage. Give bottles 7-8 years and enjoy over the following 25.