Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese 2010 37,5 cl

Following slightly sharp, prickly scents of apple jack allied to sweetly lily-like perfume, spiced apple jelly laced with lemon dominates the viscous yet bright palate of Molitor’s “one-star” 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese. For all of its sharper elements this also evinces the creaminess one associates with the best nobly sweet wines of its site, and it finishes with enormous penetration and less sense of bifurcation than I had anticipated. Truly embryonic – it had only finished fermenting just ahead of its bottling, which took place two weeks before I tasted – this is almost certainly going to have an impressive four decade run. (I did not taste a corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr B.A. that had not yet been bottled at the time of my visit.)