Torbreck RunRig 2017

As usual, the 2017 RunRig is approximately 2% Viognier. It spent almost 30 months in oak, 40% of which was new. Hints of peach or apricot appear on the nose, alongside notes of hickory smoke, cherries and baking spices. It's full-bodied and concentrated but supple and silky enough to seem lighter in the mouth, showing tremendous length and elegance on the finish, where it adds nuances of cinnamon and cocoa.

A blend of shiraz and 2% viognier. This is a blend of six very old vineyards (1850-1901 plantings), aged for 29 months in French oak barriques, 40% new. There’s a very strong expression of red and darker berries and plums, dark spices and dark stones here. The oak adds fresh-spice complexity. The palate has a super deep, dense and rich feel with such long but gentle tannins. Fluid and flowing style, super fine texture and a flavor-soaked finish. Drink or hold.

The cool vintage has done great things for Torbreck's most premium Shiraz. While it still sports broad shoulders, this bottling offers dashes of elegance and freshness. Black currant, plum, beet root, cocoa powder and gentle herbs and spices are supported by cola-like oak. The tannins are muscular but fine, tautly woven into the sleek mouthfeel. This should be a stunner with time. Drink 2022–2040.