Arizcuren Valdetrillo 2018

The 2018 Valdetrillo is a new Garnacha (with 3% Malvasía Riojana) from a plot in a zone of the village of Quel that gives the wine its name. The vineyard is on sandy soils at 800 meters in altitude, and the plants are ancient (nobody knows how old) and ungrafted. This is a rich, ripe and heady southern Garnacha with a touch of Mediterranean herbs, cherries in liqueur and something earthy/telluric. The nose is hypnotic and makes you go back to the glass over and over. The palate is luscious and reveals pungent flavors that are complex and ever-changing. This has 15% alcohol and matured in used oak barrels for 20 months. Very showy and impressive. There are 765 bottles and 100 magnums.

"It's a museum," says Javier Arizcuren of this ancient, 19th century parcel of 1.36 hectares at 762 metres. Combining Garnacha with 4% Malvasía and other bits and pieces, Valdetrillo is a classic high-altitude, old-vine red, with effortless concentration, notes of wild mountain herbs, meaty blackberry and blueberry fruit, granular tannins and wonderful minerality and palate length. 2023-31

A lively, fresher style of Rioja with crushed berries, hints of cement and some lemon zest. It’s medium-bodied with fine tannins and a vivid finish. Drink or hold.