Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2017 de JC Bessin

A cuvée that this year included fruit from La Fôret that Bessin deems less interesting, the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains was matured entirely in wood and reveals notions of almond paste, minty peaches, white flowers, apple and fresh pastry. It's medium to full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with lively acids, good concentration and a saline, stony finish. Bessin observes that it's a touch more marked by its élevage, as the cuvée was so small this year, but that's the criticism of a perfectionist.