Champagne Henri Giraud Fût de Chêne MV17

This is so precise and tight with sharp acidity and very fine, tiny bubbles. Yet, it’s rich in flavors with a broad array of hazelnuts, salted lemons, crushed chalk and hints of wild herbs and flowers. White grapefruit, too. Textured and sleek, almost creamy, while remaining mouthwateringly fresh. Drink or hold.

A little shy to open, the MV17 was only disgorged three months before the tasting. Initially quite overpowered by the concentration and weight of the Henri Giraud Argonne 2013 it was served beside, this has its own subtle charm, evolving beautifully in the glass. Two-thirds of this 80/20 Pinot/Chardonnay blend are vinified in new oak barrels and combined with one-third from the ‘perpetual reserve’, dating back to 1990. It gradually comes alive in the glass to reveal a lovely savoury balance with some toastiness, smoke and spice set against dried fruit notes. Still youthful, there’s an energy suggesting a long future. Disgorged: December 2021. Dosage: 6g/L.