Drappier Quattuor Blanc de Quatre Blancs

The latest release of Drappier's NV Brut Blanc de Quatre Blancs Quattuor—an unusual blend of Arbanne, Petite Meslier, Blanc Vrai and Chardonnay—opens in the glass with an attractive bouquet of honeycomb, crisp yellow orchard fruit, dried white flowers, marzipan and toasted walnuts. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad and crisply fleshy, with a deep core of fruit, an elegant pinpoint mousse and tangy balancing acids, concluding with a long, nutty finish. This is a terrific rendition of this rare bottling, and it's more than a mere curio; indeed, it's well worth seeking out.

This is a blend of four white grapes: Chardonnay plus Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Blanc Vrai, all varieties allowed but rarely found in Champagne. This bottling has some maturity and offers richness as well as intense crisp white fruits. The generous mousse brings out the final apple flavors. Roger Voss.

Piercingly fresh entry with citrus and lime to the fore. It seems to search out the palate, it’s awakening and seductive. A mid-weight and creamy overlay dispels any harshness and the fern and floral notes go on. 25% Arbanen, 25% Petit Meslier, 25% Pinot Blanc (Blanc Vrai), and 25% Chardonnay. Four years ageing. Dosage: 4.2g/L.