Macán 2018

The 50% new oak needs a little more time to integrate perhaps, but this is a very classy Macán from Gonzalo Iturriaga. A nose of liquorice and sweet spices leads you into a palate of cassis, blackberry, cinnamon and vanilla. The finish is chalky and restrained, showing the elegance of the vintage. 2027-35

A famously difficult year in Rioja with frost and hail, as well as some botrytis. However Macán shows plenty of promise with dark damson fruit, very fine tannin and well managed oak. Definitely an encouraging progression from the first vintage (launched in 2009) with a much clearer expression of the terroir and more elegant oak. At 16 months, it spends four months longer in oak than Macán Clásico. The ageing in French oak is now divided between foudres and barriques. Drinking Window 2022-2029.

The 2018 Macán has moderate alcohol (14%) and more freshness (pH 3.69), reflecting a cooler and rainier year that forced them to fine-tune the sorting and selection of the grapes, which fermented with selected yeasts. The élevage was in barrel (55%) and larger foudres for 16 months. 2018 was quite different from 2019, as it was cooler and rainier. The wine is serious and harmonious, which was a challenge, and winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga told me that they had to be very careful and sort and select the grapes. It's textured and elegant, a style that follows the path of the 2016; it's elegant but with depth, managing the élevage in foudre better, which was a learning process they started in 2016. 74,570 bottles, 2557 magnums and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in September 2020.

A beautiful, complex nose with creamy spices, cedar, fresh blackberries, red plums, truffles and hints of walnuts and mocha. Medium to full body with multidimensional tannins that are tight as a rock, coating the palate in a linear way, penetrating from the entry to the end with a final thud. Give it three or years to come around. Drink from 2025.