Marqués de Vargas Gran Reserva 2015

A wine that is only just coming onto the market, despite the fact that it was reviewed three years ago in these pages, this is a well-judged, harmonious blend of Tempranillo with 10% each of Mazuelo and Garnacha. Something of a classic style, with balsamic complexity, refined tannins, scented French and American oak and a refreshing finish. 2025-30.

The 2015 Gran Reserva feels quite harmonious even if it was generously oaked. It's 80% Tempranillo with 10% each Mazuelo and Garnacha that matured in barrique for 24 months, the first 16 in French barriques and the rest in American oak barrels. It has some oxidative notes, hints of iron, blood and iodine and fine-grained tannins. It finishes with some bitterness and slightly astringent. 26,450 bottles.

Deep ruby in the glass, this wine features aromas of blackberry, black olive and green bell pepper. There is a pleasant underlying  note of green bell pepper on the palate, joined by flavors of black cherry, raspberry, eucalyptus, milk chocolate and dried thyme. Vigorous tannins make way for a cherry vanilla finish.

A creamy and supple Rioja with walnuts, vanilla, savory plums, tobacco and leather. A hint of violets, too. This is juicy and fine-grained in a medium-bodied palate, before a long, bright finish. Sandblasted tannins. Drink now.