Curtimenta Alvarinho 2014

The 2014 Curtimenta, one of Mendes' specialty items, was aged in used French oak for nine months. It comes in at 13% alcohol. Surprisingly elegant, considering the oak treatment, this graceful Alvarinho is a bit understated and very focused. The grip and penetration on the finish demonstrates that this is not your ordinary Alvarinho, though. It lingers and persists, handling its wood beautifully. The wood-aged Alvarinhos are always a bit different--they have less purity and character, of course--but this is the perfect food wine and impeccably balanced, fresh and graceful. This was a sometimes tricky vintage. Curtimenta still excels. (Note: in case you're wondering, a bottle of the Parcela Única, another specialty item to which I often compare Curtimenta, was corked and a replacement could not be obtained in time for this report. It will appear next issue, which will focus on more Vinhos Verdes in any event.). - Mark Squires.