Montes Obarenes 2018

It's our version of the great aged whites of Rioja,' says David Gonzalez, director and winemaker at Gómez Cruzado. 'We are also looking towards Burgundy stylistically.' The wine begins with an exuberant citrus creaminess, followed by fine herbs, and a delicate texture. Very good. First vintage 2013 and it gets better and better. Drinking Window 2022-2030.

One of the finest "modern" whites from Rioja in one of its finest vintages to date is the 2018 Montes Obarenes, from the chalky soils near these mountains. I say "modern" because it matured in French barriques and concrete eggs rather than American barriques and they also use some Tempranillo Blanco (25%), but the rest is classical, Viura with some 5% each Malvasía Riojana and Calagraño. In 2018, the grapes ripened thoroughly, and the wine achieved 14% alcohol and full development of aromas and flavors, keeping a pH of 3.5. It's perhaps a little more Burgundian, with a complex nose of tangerines, flowers, pollen and faint spice and smoke. The palate is velvety and rich but with freshness. It should develop nicely in bottle. 19,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in September 2020.

Named after the range of hills in the cool, north-west corner of Rioja, Gómez Cruzado's top white is a cuvée of Viura and 25% Tempranillo Blanco, Calagraño and Malvasía. Aged in concrete eggs and barrels, it's a leesy, sappy, complex blend with notes of beeswax, vanilla and lemongrass and a salty tang. Wonderfully complex. 2022-28