les Cailloux Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire 2016

When one comes across a wine like this in a blind tasting, it's human nature to second-guess the initial reaction. Yet every time I went back to the wine that turned out to be the Brunels' 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire, I came away astounded by its complexity and balance. Yes, it's full-bodied, but it's also light on its feet, a lithe vinous gymnast, wiry and strong yet graceful and loaded with nuance. The soaring aromas and flavors range from raspberries and cherries through to roses, black tea, thyme and lavender in this incredible wine. I suspect it will rival the legendary 1990 and 1998 versions.