M. Chapoutier Côte Rôtie Neve 2017

From a rocky, mica-schist lieu-dit that's only recently been showing up on single-vineyard wines, Chapoutier's 2017 Cote Rotie Neve is a bold, full-bodied and powerful example of the appellation. Blueberry and boysenberry fruit is couched in rich, velvety tannins, followed by a long, lingering finish. Impressive.

Prettily floral, medium-bodied, fresh, very fine tannins, with a good sense of drinkability. The oak here is a little more dominant, and the tannins, though not dry, are a touch drier than M Chapoutier’s La Mordorée wine. Pretty, surprisingly structured, with a fairly long finish. This is 100% Syrah, made from 15-year-old vines, planted on a schist vineyard towards the east of the appellation. Yields of 21 hl/ha. Completely destemmed, fermented in concrete then matured for 18 months in a large wooden tank, 30% of which is new oak. Drinking Window 2020 - 2026.

Wildly exotic spices, dark plums, orange zest, peaches and ginger. So much happening already. The palate has a very succulent, juicy and lively feel with such smoothly layered, dark and red berries and fine, white-pepper allure and a succulent, fine, assertive tannin build. Cardamom and plums to close. Try from 2024.

From a vineyard just near Viallière and Grandes Places, the 2017 Côte Rôtie Neve is brought up all in barrels, 25% or less being new, which is the same élevage as the Mordorée. Nevertheless, it shows a very different personality compared to the Mordorée, with more minerality, austerity, tannins, and structure. Blackberries, currants, scorched earth, and graphite notes as well as incredible minerality all give way to a backward, concentrated, structured, beast of a Côte Rôtie. There are just 181 cases made, but it’s stunning stuff worth seeking out.