Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Nº 24

A fantastic prestigious cuvée this year with a solid core of fruit that makes it so serious and structured. Like a grand cru Burgundy. Full body. Lightly chewy. Phenolic tension gives it form and beauty. This is the first year to use numbers. 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir. 2007, 2006 and 2004. Drink or hold.

A grand wine, this is the 24th blend of Grand Siécle, the producer's top cuvée. With wonderful toastiness, the Champagne from grand cru vineyards is at a perfect moment of maturity. Almonds mingle with the white fruits and acidity in perfect balance. Drink now. Roger Voss

Tasted from magnum, a format that won't come to market for another year or two, Laurent-Perrier's NV Brut Grand Siècle #24 is a blend of the 2007, 2006 and 2004 vintages. Wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of dried flowers, toasted nuts, mandarin orange, clear honey and subtle hints of iodine, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and expressive, with all the elegant charm and accessibility it displayed when I reviewed it for the first time last year. As I wrote then, this is an especially giving rendition of Grand Siècle that will show well young.

Aromas of smoke, almond and toast. Palate shows brisk acidity with notes of sweet pastry, ginger and cardamom. One for oily shellfish and rich sauces.