Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2018

Aromas of spicy red cherries on a loamy underlay, together with savory twists of forest floor and walnut shell. Some orange rind, too. Full-bodied with very fine, firm and silky tannins and lots of long, focused fruit and spice flavor. Good structure for 2018. Needs a year or two to fully knit together. Best from 2024.

The 2018 Barolo opens to ripe aromas of dried plum and tobacco. This vintage lacks some of the complexity of a cooler growing season, but these results are far from monochromatic. Those tobacco aromas cede to cedar, earth, forest floor and hints of shaved truffle.

The new selection 'Pio' from Pio Cesare is a blend of the different MGAs of the estate. Classic bright garnet in the glass, the wine is focused on cherry kernels with tar, violet, a bit of camphor and sweet spices. The attack is firm and crisp, introducing a brilliant crunchiness on the palate along with grainy tannins which stretch to a slightly austere finish. It lacks a bit of pulp - a signature of the 2018 vintage - but this is one of the best village-level Barolo this year.