Gaja Conteisa 2015

The large shoulders of this warm 2015 vintage contrast sharply with the delicate nuances of the 2016 Barbarescos also released now from Gaja. The 2015 Barolo Conteisa is intense, with a background chorus of plum, prune, herb, mint and wild cherry. It's a very balanced Barolo. The Cerequio vineyard that provides this fruit often suffers from hail damage because the vineyard is located along the corridor of bad weather that comes over the hill from La Morra. There was some damage in mid-August, but fruit in the 2016 vintage suffered much more extensively in comparison. In fact, so little fruit was saved that Gaia Gaja is pretty sure this wine will not be produced next vintage. She tells me that they are now experimenting with anti-hail netting at this site—an eyesore they had long hoped to avoid.

Extremely pure fruit on the nose here with aromas of plums and strawberries and hints of cedar and rose petals, as well as rose stems. Full body. Very tannic and structured, yet polished and refined. Dusty and stony undertones and textures. Drink after 2021.

From a cooler, hillside site to the southeast of the appellation with heavier clay and limestone soils. This expresses a cooler style of Nebbiolo, leaning towards a Pinot Noir flavour profile. It has a floral character with a gorgeous perfume of citrus notes and raspberries. Pure red berry sweetness with succulent, juicy acidity and racy tannins. Stunningly elegant, this is delicious and desirable now. Wonderful to drink or keep. Aged in 30% new oak.

Intense, rich ruby red with light rim Compact red berry nose of raspberries and rosehips, hints of pomegranate and blood orange. Very smooth complex palate, extremely elegant, great texture, focus and drive paired with fresh red fruit and crisp tannins. A powerful wine with a substantial length and finish.

Underbrush, toast and oak aromas form the nose. Firm and austere, the linear palate evokes tart cranberry, raw pomegranate, sage and roasted coffee bean alongside taut, close-grained tannins. Drink 2023–2030.