Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millesimé 2013

Such a pleasingly elegant and multifaceted Champagne with salty, creamy and toasty elements all wound together. Plenty of apricot pastries, pears, brown butter, fennel and salted almonds, with some iodine. It’s silky on the palate, with soft and supple bubbles, while remaining fresh and on edge. 70% chardonnay and 30% pinot noir, from 11 cru villages mostly in Montagne de Reims with Cotes de Blancs. Disgorged December 2022. 9 g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

The nose opens with an initial whiff of creaminess, followed by hints of creamy polenta and tart yet aromatic citrus and chalk. The palate is immediately striking with saltiness and savouriness. The foam is rich and tiny bubbles burst, releasing the citric charm of lemon and white grapefruit. There is something driven, vertical and precise on the taut body, softened by that creamy generosity and subtle oyster shell appeal of the mousse. The finish holds a delicious frisson of white pepper and grapefruit zest spice. A very straight-laced wine for now that will unfold in its long future.