Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve

Very impressive for a "regular" non-vintage Brut, not only in terms of aromatic complexity - candied citrus, dried peach and fresh mirabelle plus a hint of bread dough - also in terms of texture, the creamy, rich and crisp sides of the wine neatly interlocking. Long, structured finish. A cuvee that's half 2018 and half reserve wines, some of which are a couple of years old, but many of them are five- to 10-years-old, with several over 10-years-old. Drink or hold.

Based on the 2014 vintage, complemented by fully 40% old reserve wines, the new release of Charles Heidsieck's NV Brut Réserve was disgorged earlier this year. It's showing very well, opening up in the glass with notes of green apple, dried white flowers, pear, candied peel and walnuts. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a textural attack and a racier, tighter-knit core than either the 2012- or 2010-base renditions, displaying good concentration and underlying richness. This is a bottling that continues to punch above its weight and which both merits and rewards a few years in the cellar before opening. - William Kelley. 

One of the best value grandes marques on the market, a blend of 60 crus, with roughly a third each of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, vinified individually by cru and variety, in stainless steel. Compared to other grandes marques, it is high (40%) in reserve wines, averaging 10 years old and dating back to 1990. Quite a floral style with lemon sherbet intensity and bready, leesy characters. It has great concentration and complexity, with a lovely grip of acidity on the finish.