El Enemigo As Bravas Malbec 2018

A contemporary classic by which to measure Argentine Malbec, the 2018 As Bravas Malbec is a spectacular wine in every regard. It derives from a 1.7-hectare parcel of ungrafted vines planted in Cordón El Cepillo's colluvial limestone soils and contains 5% co-planted Sémillon. It was fermented in concrete pools with 30% whole clusters and underwent a 23-day maceration before maturing for fully 64 months in a 100-year-old Italian foudre. From the first pour, there is a quietly commanding quality to the nose, which ceaselessly evolves around a dark-fruited core and myriad savory aromas of dried spices, charcoal, ash, licorice, fresh herbs and violets. The palate is seemingly endlessly layered, combining a dense, staining texture with sophisticated understatement and supreme elegance. It culminates with an incredibly long, impactful, concentrated and captivatingly weightless finish, further elongated by a sturdy graphite-laden core and ultra-refined tannins that continuously swell. This is a timeless wine of symphonic balance that should effortlessly deliver over two decades of drinking pleasure. (Matthew Luczy)

This wine opens with blackberry aromas, then shows an herbal, underbrush-driven character that is equally seductive. It combines a very elegant thread of fruit with incisive force. There’s a striking interplay of chiseled fruit, precise tannins and a fresh and juicy yet austere finish. Made from malbec with a pinch of semillon. A wine that should slowly evolve over time. This is fermented with 30% whole clusters and is then aged for 64 months in 2,000-liter foudres. Drink or hold. (Jacobo Garcia-Andrade Llamas)

Por alguna razón, quizás porque nos gustan los vinos con textura, los que se sienten en la boca, pinchan y piden comida, es que muchos de los vinos que más premiamos de El Enemigo son de El Cepillo, una zona al extremo sur del Valle de Uco. Un paisaje árido de montaña, abierto hacia los vientos fríos del sur que causan estragos con sus heladas. Es un lugar difícil, extremo, que suele dar vinos intensos en notas a hierbas y frutas negras ácidas, con taninos duros. Algo de eso hay aquí, pero bajo control; no en el nivel de locura que vimos en la cosecha pasada, sino que -sobre todo a nivel de taninos- está mucho más cuidado. Un El cepillo más elegante. Pero claro, hay que esperarlo, este tinto tiene para rato en botella, aunque ahora, con todos esos sabores, está difícil no tentarse si es que hay una carne cocinándose en la olla por un buen rato (algo de ajo, algunas hojas de laurel, cebollas). Y si es que es domingo, ustedes verán. (Patricio Tapia)